Tue, 21 Dec: The Adventure Begins

4:30P local time

A safe arrival in Rome with only a few minor incidents.  I nearly left my coat on my seat.  They weren’t able to attach the jet bridge to the front of the plane so we had to deplane from the rear—even the flight attendants had never had that happen before—and take buses over to the terminal.

Getting through customs was easy; finding the hotel driver not quite as easy.  Fortunately I saw some other drivers hanging around and wandered over to find the one holding a sign with my name on it.

The drive from the airport was, hmmm, yes, “interesting.”  While the lines are somewhat respected, the shoulder is really the scooter/motorcycle lane and the “I really am going to get off the road soon” lane.  Scooters and motorcycles dart in and out of the lanes and between cars.  Merging is an act of faith and courage.  The vehicles have mirrors, but they seem to be optional-use accessories.  Finding one’s way around the city, well, I’m just glad I don’t have to take a road test in Rome.

My first hotel was small as I knew it would be, but it gave new definition to "small."  I'm not usually claustrophobic, but. . .   The first thing I did was find a new hotel, which proved to be across the street and one I’d tried to book online.  I don’t remember why I couldn’t, but I'm at the Albergo del Senato.

I’ve wandered around the city a bit.  I am right across the street from the Pantheon (I kept saying “Parthenon” even though I know they’re not in the same city or country; yikes!) in the Piazza della Rotondo.  There seem to be about a zillion cafes and gelato places. Lots of shops on what I’d like to call side streets, but everything in this part of Rome seems to be a side street.  I think people have to know THAT a shop exists or this city is simply non-stop discovery, assuming you can remember how to get to and from your discoveries.  The streets are an absolutely warren of zigs and zags.  Grids were clearly not a part of the ancient Roman city development plan and street signs are rare and inconsistently posted.

And these streets were not built for cars.  Or cars and pedestrians.  I love the alleys—which are really alleys though used as streets—marked for pedestrians only.  Right.  I’m not sure Italians can read street signs.  I’m being facetious; they can, they simply choose not to.  There’s a section in one of the guide books that is so very, very true because being on the streets of Rome takes fortitude not to get killed.  Seriously.  "This city was built before the automobile age, so often there are no sidewalks.  Remember that drivers believe that stopping at a red light is more of an opinion than a requirement.  Cross at the white stripes, even then, be careful because cars don't always slow down at the sight of a pedestrian and scooters almost never do.  But unless death seems a real possibility, try not to be intimidated.  Maintain your pace, make eye contact with the driver (is that like a triple dog dare?), look determined, and head purposefully for the opposite curb."  Praying to St. Jude might not be a bad idea either.

But one of my favorite, favorite things (so far) about the streets is the parking.  Random.  Completely random.  I really loved the street with all of the scooters and Smart cars, some of the cars were parked parallel to the building and others were parked facing the building or backed toward the building.  And because a Smart is nearly as wide as it is long, well, you can see how that might happen.  How people get out of parking places is a mystery given how cars are wedged every which way.  I’ll have to get some pictures.

I found a grocery shop so I could some water to drink while I wandered.  I think I remember where it is so I can stock up.  I came back to the hotel after some wandering to sort out some stuff and take a nap.  The trip and time change caught up with me a bit.  But now I’m about to be out and about again.  I have some time before I need to find a place for dinner and, of course, gelato!

9:20P Local time

A wonderful meal at a little café in Piazza del Rotondo overlooking the Pantheon.  Street musicians playing Cat Stevens and Eric Clapton’s Greatest Hits?  Yes, yes, that is what I heard.  The street musicians rotate.  A guitarist, then a guitarist with a vocalist, then a saxophonist. . . who could use some help.  There are three street cafes close together.  Each musicians has a stint and he plays in front of each café for a period of time, collects his tips, and then steps aside for the next musician.  I don’t think it’s officially organized because the saxophonist waited a while for his turn.  But they all play dated American music as though they think most of their audience is American tourists.

I went in search of gelato, which is easy.  There’s a vendor on nearly every corner.  It’s like Dunkin’ Donuts in Boston.  I tried one tonight and will try another tomorrow night, now that I’ve found the one recommended by my friend Jhennifer.

The Piazza Navona is still quite lively as is the Piazza della Rotondo.  I, on the other hand, not so lively thanks to time changes and little sleep on the flight over.  I’ll catch up a bit tonight.

My window is open so I wonder how many iterations of Eric Clapton, Cat Stevens, and I’m pretty sure I heard a few Beatles’ covers I’ll hear tonight.  The cafes are open until midnight.

Did I mention my window is open?  It’s cool but not cold.  Quite delightful, actually.  I’m hoping the weather holds.