All Roads Lead to Piazza Navona

They don't really, but it sure seems as though no matter where I have wandered, I can manage to end up near a sign pointing towards Piazza Navona.  It's big.  It's probably not meant to be brash, but the Piazza Navona certainly is brash just now as it is lined with street vendors.  I still haven't gotten one of those giants donuts which you can get smeared with Nutella.  What's not to like about that?  And I saw a "Nutella-to-Go" item in the grocery store.  That cracked me up.  No, I haven't bought any.  Yet.

There's a carousel to the left of the Bernini statue as you are facing the Borromini building.  Though the figures in the statue are meant to be responding to  Borromini's work of the building, they could be responding to the crass commercialism now in this Piazza.

The forecast for the day was overcast and drizzly, which is not unusual for this time of year, or so I'm told, but the morning broke clear and cool.  Springlike when I compare it to the high 20sF in Chicago.

My first stop of the morning: Fountain of Trevi.  It's easy to amble down a street and then BAM! there it is.  Though the increasing volume of voices should be a giveaway that you are closing in on Something Important.  The fountain is huge and quite impressive at 85 feet high and 65 feet wide.  Like so much in Rome, the Fountain of Trevi has a complicated history influenced by ego and power, perhaps the need to insure a legacy. 

Surrounding the steps leading to the fountain are the inevitable tsotchke vendors and the occasional street artist.  I've seen several Statues of Liberty, usually in white or silver, though one was in blue.  It does no good to mutter that they should be green though I do it anyway.

After the Fountain of Trevi, by happenstance, the Spanish Steps.  What is fascinating about the Spanish Steps is not the steps themselves, but the hoards of people.  What's important to understand is that the Piazza de Spagna is on Via del Babuino (no, not "Barbarino").  As you face the Fontana della Barcaccia (Bernini, c. 1629) with the Steps behind you, you'll be looking down Via Condotti and one of the first shops on the left is Gucci, then Bulgari, Vuitton, Valentino, etc.  You get the idea.  Via del Babuino may have Tiffany, Chanel, and Armani (casual), but the truly high-brow is on Via Condotti.  Go to the end of this street, hang a left on Via del Corso (a lovely shopping boulevard itself), and then another left on Via Borgognona for Levi, Calvin Klein, Fendi, and more Gucci.  There are a few other streets in this shopping mecca area, so be sure to study your Spanish Steps maps to plan your shopping trek, even if it's only for window shopping.  The prices may not look bad in euro, but then you must do the math to convert to your currency of choice.  I should note there's a lovely leather goods shop on Via del Babuino southeast of the Steps and, unfortunately, next to a McDonald's.

And so, up the Spanish Steps to the obelisk--of which there are many in Rome. . . that was, apparently, "pilfered from Egypt" which would explain the hieroglyphics--and down the street to meander towards to the Villa Borghese as I have a date at the museum.  Again, easy to be distracted by lovely hotels and shops but I was anxious to get to the park.

Up the Via di Porta Pinciana and past posh hotels on the right and a very high wall on the left, guarding the edges of the Borghese property.  Through the Porta Pinciana, a "portal through the great wall around Rome" which was built in 400 AD.  And then the noise and traffic of the city were left behind.  It was like walking into a completely different universe.  The further I walked into the park, the more distant the sound of the traffic and horns and sirens.  It was quite lovely.  And it was truly wonderful to have time to wander through the park, look at statues and trees and open spaces.  I had plenty of time before my appointed time to enter the Galleria Borghese.

I hardly know what to say about this art museum.  I walked in the door and was stunned by the gorgeousness of the first room, especially its ceiling.  Visitors are not allowed to take pictures and there is no way on earth I can possibly explain how spectacularly gorgeous the exhibits are.  You must just go.  It's not a huge museum, but you will be breathless in room after room.  There is a two-hour limit.  Use your time wisely.  Because I am something of a cretin, I went through the entire first floor quite quickly and then went back more slowly to the rooms I really wanted to see and in which I wanted to spend more time.  I did go upstairs and wandered through those rooms more leisurely.  The stairs are somewhat steep, but you can stop and look out the windows at the gardens while you catch your breath if you need.

I left through the gate that read Villa Borghese.  Just across the street was a car dealership for Maserati and Ferrari, and to the left of that was a Harley Davidson shop.  No lie.  I've not seen many big bikes zooming around Rome, but clearly they can be bought.

So my random observations of Rome:

• Italians smoke too much.
• Hotel room charges are based on size of the room.  What is "superior" in Rome might not be what we would consider the same in the States.
• Many women seem to have colored their hair remarkable shades of red that are not found in nature.
• Dinner "hour" really doesn't begin until after 7:30P or so as some restaurants don't even open until 7:30P.  I ate tonight at the Due Colonne (two columns in the restaurant) and a huge crowd entered around 8:30P.

What I forgot to say about the Colosseum:  it's a place designed to reinforce the class system.  There were steep stairs for the lower class and on up to the "cheap seats."  Deeper stairs with little or no steepness for the upper class and a ramp for the members of the Senate.

Another extraordinary day in Rome.

Tue, 21 Dec: The Adventure Begins

4:30P local time

A safe arrival in Rome with only a few minor incidents.  I nearly left my coat on my seat.  They weren’t able to attach the jet bridge to the front of the plane so we had to deplane from the rear—even the flight attendants had never had that happen before—and take buses over to the terminal.

Getting through customs was easy; finding the hotel driver not quite as easy.  Fortunately I saw some other drivers hanging around and wandered over to find the one holding a sign with my name on it.

The drive from the airport was, hmmm, yes, “interesting.”  While the lines are somewhat respected, the shoulder is really the scooter/motorcycle lane and the “I really am going to get off the road soon” lane.  Scooters and motorcycles dart in and out of the lanes and between cars.  Merging is an act of faith and courage.  The vehicles have mirrors, but they seem to be optional-use accessories.  Finding one’s way around the city, well, I’m just glad I don’t have to take a road test in Rome.

My first hotel was small as I knew it would be, but it gave new definition to "small."  I'm not usually claustrophobic, but. . .   The first thing I did was find a new hotel, which proved to be across the street and one I’d tried to book online.  I don’t remember why I couldn’t, but I'm at the Albergo del Senato.

I’ve wandered around the city a bit.  I am right across the street from the Pantheon (I kept saying “Parthenon” even though I know they’re not in the same city or country; yikes!) in the Piazza della Rotondo.  There seem to be about a zillion cafes and gelato places. Lots of shops on what I’d like to call side streets, but everything in this part of Rome seems to be a side street.  I think people have to know THAT a shop exists or this city is simply non-stop discovery, assuming you can remember how to get to and from your discoveries.  The streets are an absolutely warren of zigs and zags.  Grids were clearly not a part of the ancient Roman city development plan and street signs are rare and inconsistently posted.

And these streets were not built for cars.  Or cars and pedestrians.  I love the alleys—which are really alleys though used as streets—marked for pedestrians only.  Right.  I’m not sure Italians can read street signs.  I’m being facetious; they can, they simply choose not to.  There’s a section in one of the guide books that is so very, very true because being on the streets of Rome takes fortitude not to get killed.  Seriously.  "This city was built before the automobile age, so often there are no sidewalks.  Remember that drivers believe that stopping at a red light is more of an opinion than a requirement.  Cross at the white stripes, even then, be careful because cars don't always slow down at the sight of a pedestrian and scooters almost never do.  But unless death seems a real possibility, try not to be intimidated.  Maintain your pace, make eye contact with the driver (is that like a triple dog dare?), look determined, and head purposefully for the opposite curb."  Praying to St. Jude might not be a bad idea either.

But one of my favorite, favorite things (so far) about the streets is the parking.  Random.  Completely random.  I really loved the street with all of the scooters and Smart cars, some of the cars were parked parallel to the building and others were parked facing the building or backed toward the building.  And because a Smart is nearly as wide as it is long, well, you can see how that might happen.  How people get out of parking places is a mystery given how cars are wedged every which way.  I’ll have to get some pictures.

I found a grocery shop so I could some water to drink while I wandered.  I think I remember where it is so I can stock up.  I came back to the hotel after some wandering to sort out some stuff and take a nap.  The trip and time change caught up with me a bit.  But now I’m about to be out and about again.  I have some time before I need to find a place for dinner and, of course, gelato!

9:20P Local time

A wonderful meal at a little café in Piazza del Rotondo overlooking the Pantheon.  Street musicians playing Cat Stevens and Eric Clapton’s Greatest Hits?  Yes, yes, that is what I heard.  The street musicians rotate.  A guitarist, then a guitarist with a vocalist, then a saxophonist. . . who could use some help.  There are three street cafes close together.  Each musicians has a stint and he plays in front of each café for a period of time, collects his tips, and then steps aside for the next musician.  I don’t think it’s officially organized because the saxophonist waited a while for his turn.  But they all play dated American music as though they think most of their audience is American tourists.

I went in search of gelato, which is easy.  There’s a vendor on nearly every corner.  It’s like Dunkin’ Donuts in Boston.  I tried one tonight and will try another tomorrow night, now that I’ve found the one recommended by my friend Jhennifer.

The Piazza Navona is still quite lively as is the Piazza della Rotondo.  I, on the other hand, not so lively thanks to time changes and little sleep on the flight over.  I’ll catch up a bit tonight.

My window is open so I wonder how many iterations of Eric Clapton, Cat Stevens, and I’m pretty sure I heard a few Beatles’ covers I’ll hear tonight.  The cafes are open until midnight.

Did I mention my window is open?  It’s cool but not cold.  Quite delightful, actually.  I’m hoping the weather holds.